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Anne & Ben's Trip Report-Central America

2-28-06 Hi all,
Not too much to report yet, we just arrived today.  So far so good, we had an easy flight and good bus rides from Cancun straight to Tulum, a beach town with some Mayan ruins.  We are staying at a really cool hostel in town and had some amazing Mexican food tonight for dinner.  We’re going to the ruins and the beach tomorrow to soak up some sun.  Its really hot and humid here, but I am loving it.  So, I guess that’s it.  Love, Anne

3-7-06 Hey guys,
Well, we've had a few fun adventures since I wrote to you last.  After spending a few relaxing days on the beach we went to Chichen Itza, a famous Mayan Ruins in Mexico.  It was really beautiful and fairly well preserved, with a huge pyramid that people used to be able to climb.  Unfortunately a few months ago a woman fell down it, so it is closed off now.  There were some really beautiful carvings and columns and buildings.  But, it was so touristy, a tour bus haven, and people trying to sell you stuff constantly.  So much
stuff for $1, one guy said his stuff was cheaper than Walmart. Funny, but a little sad too.  I'm still glad that we went and saw it. 

After that we headed down here to Belize and after 13 hours on several buses made it down here.  The differences from Mexico were apparent.  We switched languages, from Spanish to English.  And it seems like there is more poverty here, at least compared to the Yucatan.  The buses are older, a lot of the buildings more run down, the people not dressed as nicely, but in a way the people are friendlier here.  I think that the people in the Yucatan are just tired of the tourists and have seen their share of obnoxious ones. 

Anyway, a funny coincidence.  We were coming down
here to meet with the family we stayed with and went into the jungle with the last time we were here and also their sister and brother in law who have a hotel in town.  On the bus on the last leg before we got here we met Oncell, the father of the family we stayed with.  We got to talk with him and set some things up for our visit.  We made it to the hotel, which is still in progress but coming along and it's really beautiful.  Phil, the owner, and his wife and daughters are really nice and we've been spending a
lot of time with them.  Yesterday we went out to the country to visit with Oncell and Soley and their kids, who went stayed with last year.  They are doing good and it was so nice to see them.  They have a new baby, making it their fifth child and all boys. 

We had a really great visit and went out into the jungle on some newly cleared trails to a beautiful waterfall. Saw jaguar and tapir (mountain cow) tracks on the way.  On the way back to the house we saw some toucans flying low in the sky.  We tried lots of new fruits and learned some about the trees and plants, it was cool.  A nice day.  Today, just relaxing before we head west tomorrow and into Guatemala
to Tikal (another very famous Mayan Ruins) on Thursday.  So, we're just truckin along.  Love you guys, hope to talk to you all soon, Annie

3-11-06 Hello everyone,
After having a really great visit with friends in Belize we hurried across the border to Guatemala and Tikal.  We went into the park in the afternoon and walked through the ruins for sunset.  It was so beautiful, we climbed to the top of a pyramid that was built in 700 BC and had a view of other temples rising up through the jungle, it was awesome, the white buildings poking out through the tree.  We saw parrots and toucan flying from up there, it was really great. 

The next morning, after a sleepiness night in uncomfortable hammocks, we woke up at 4:30 for a sunrise tour.  Unfortunately it was foggy and we didn´t get the beautiful view from on top of Temple IV of the sun rising behind the other temples.  We heard lots of sounds of the animals waking up, parrots and howler monkeys, it was really cool.  Our guide was great and took us all around the park before most of the other tourists got there.  It was so much more beautiful than Tulum or Chichen Itza I thought.  Pretty well preserved and it is just so awesome that it is right in the middle of the jungle. Only 15% of the 10,000 buildings on the site have even been uncovered. We are in Coban, Guatemala and heading to Lanquin this afternoon to check out some caves and rivers and relax a little.  The drive here was amazing, through the highlands and all the Mayan communities, the green hills with corn growing on them, beautiful.  After this we are heading to Antigua and Lago de Atitlan, one of our favorite places from the last time we were here.  Love, Annie

3-15-06 Hello all,

Well, since I wrote you last we have pretty much been in the same place.  We´re at a lodge in the Highlandsin a town called Lanquin called El Retiro.  It takes 2 hours to travel the 61 kilometers (40 miles) to get here on a twisty and then bumpy road.  But it was worth it, it is so beautiful here.  Little thatch roofed cabañas up on stilts on a hill, overlooking a river and surrounded by other hills.  It has a great restaurant with amazing and cheap vegetarian food and an awesome staff.  Tons of cool travelers coming through every day.  Just a very chill atmosphere, and a party in the bar every night.  A place to go swimming and take tubes up the river and then float back to the lodge.  so, we were planning on staying here 2 nights and tonight will be our 5th. 

We´ve been doing some cool stuff around here.  Went to one cave with some really cool formations and swam in the underground lake then watched hundreds of bats fly out of the cave at dusk, pretty cool.  Took the tubes down the river and saw a lot of Mayan people bathing and collecting crabs from the shallow water.  Some of the little boys grabbed onto our tubes and rode down the river a little ways with us.  After letting go, they yelled to me "Adios me amor"!!  Pretty cute. 

Yesterday for Ben´s birthday we went to Semuc Champey, the thing that originally drew us here.  First we went to the Kan-Ba caves and it was so amazing.  There were some cool formations, but the best part was just the tour.  We went into the cave with a great guide just with candles, there were no lights in the caves, he just lit and left candles behind to light our way back to the entrance.  We had to swim with the candles up over our heads for a good part of the ways.  At one point I was a ways behind some of the group and a ways ahead of the rest of the group so that the only light was from my candle, it was so cool.  There were little cascades making the rocks all smooth.  It was so awesome. 

Then we went to Semuc.  it was so beautiful, all these connected pools, deep and so blue with vegetation growing all along the borders of the pools.  Little cascades connecting the pools.  We walked up and up to a huge waterfall.  I can´t even describe it, I´ll have to show the pictures.  So, it was a good birthday for Ben I think.  I got the cook here to bake him some little carrot cake muffins.  It was fun.  And other than that we´ve been swimming, sunning, eating good food, reading and sitting in hammocks, pretty much it´s the life.   Love, Anne 

3-18-06 Hey,
Just a quick hello, we had a fun few days in Antigua, mostly shopping at the artisans market and walking around the beautiful city.  We did discover our favorite thing yet, 3 for 10 Questzal Tacos.  That is, 3 tacos for about $1.50, with guac and salsas and everything, awesome.  We just arrived at Lago de Atitlan today, one of our favorite places from our last trip.  Tomorrow we are going to a local market and then heading to a town across the lake, San Marcos for a few days.  hope all is well with all of you.  Love, Anne

3-26-06 Okay, so hello, we spent some very relaxing days in San Marcos, a very small  town on Lago de Atitlan.  We basically went swimming, ate delicious food and did fantastic yoga classes every morning.  Unfortunately, I sprained my wrist or something in one of the classes. I saw a chiropractor yesterday (the only doctor I could find in Antigua on a Saturday, even at the hospital) and he said it  wasn't broken, so that's good news. 

Anyway, we went to the next village over from San Marcos, Tzununa, and visited our friend Terry who we met and stayed with last year.  He is a Canadian and we didn't even know if he would be in the country, but after some hunting we found him and had a nice visit on his beautiful property. 

I don't know if any of you remem ber hearing about huge landslides in Guatemala  last October, but the lago de Atitlan area is  where they happened and  you could really see the damage in Tzununa as well as San Marcos.  Huge trenches just filled with rock, left  over from the rivers of rocks that flowed down the mountain side.  Things looked totally different on the path to Terry's  house and I guess the landslides even changed the course of a waterfall nearby.  Luckily Terry didn't  sustain any damage, but the water rose all around his house and many neighbors lost their homes.  When looking around the lake we could see white strips all over the cliffs and those were all the places the landslides hit, crazy. 

We also got to see our friend Hector who lives in San Marcos who we traveled with a bit last year.  We were lucky, he got home from a 2 month trip 2 days before we left, so we had a good time cooking and talking together.  He had 2 litters of puppies and a litter of kittens at his house, the last thing the community needs, but pretty cute. 

After San Marcos we went to an amazing hotel on the lake called La Casa del Mundo (the house of the world).  It is  this beautiful Spanish style building built on the cliff and overlooking the lake with indigenous art everywhere and terraces, hammocks, little sitting areas and a great place to swim.  It was a very relaxing few days, with delicious food from  their restaurant and a lot of reading and looking at the lake.  They have a wood fired hot  tub and we went in that one night. It was awesome to soak and look at the city lights across the lake and the night fishermen bringing in their nets.  We ran into some friends we met a few weeks ago, so that was fun. 

We left the lake yesterday and went back to Antigua.  We got to go to a great concert last night called Buena Vista Corozon.  It was the Buena Vista Social Club's second project and it was awesome.   They play Cuban jazz.  A Garifuna, or Caribbean band open for them. They were mostly  percussion and they amazing dancers.  Then a Guatemalan band  playing traditional music, guitar, wood flute and a ukulele type instrument.   Then Buena Vista Corozon, the music was amazing and they had  this awesome dancers.  And a girl on violin, who I was told is only 18.  The story is she was walking back from her Spanish class in Antigua where the band was living, with her violin case, they saw her and asked  her to play a rehearsal with them and she was so good they asked her to tour with them, wow. 

The music was great, but then we were up at 3:45 this morning to take the 6 hour shuttle to Copan, Honduras where we lived and volunteered for a month last year.  It's nice to be back.  Kind of a quiet day since it's Sunday, but I love this  town and look forward to visiting the ruins here again and seeing our home stay family  and Spanish teachers.  So, that's it I think.  We're nearing the end of the trip.  We'll spend a few days here and then head to the Bay Islands for about a week to get our scuba diving certificates, then have to make the long journey back up to Cancun to fly home.  Love you all,  Annie

4-4-06 Hello everyone,

We have had 5 very tiring, but very fun days.  After we left Copan we made our way here, to Utila, an island in the group of Bay Islands off of Honduras.  It's pretty small with only one town, but you can walk to the beach, which we haven't had time to do yet and there are lots of restaurants and dive shops.  Also, the people speak English here, you don't need Spanish at all.  It's in the Carribean Sea and has more of a Carribean atmosphere than a Latin atmosphere, though some of the people here are native Spanish speakers. 

The water is beautiful, very blue and there are something like 70 or 80 dive sites around the island.  We got off a very rocky boat ride and were greeted by representatives from tons of dive shops giving us pamphlets and urging us to shop around, but to pick thier shop.  We ended up walking with a British woman, April, to set down our things at her shop, Parrots Dive Shop, and after looking around a bit we went with them.  The Open Water Diver Programs are all about the same price, but Parrots has a really nice new and very fast boat and free accomodations for us during the course and is right on the water.  Plus, Spencer and April, the insrtuctors made us feel really comfortable.  It's a small shop with small classes.  We have been working through the course for the last five days, lots of cheesy videos and textbook reading and quizzes and homework.  Also, we've been in the water everyday. 

The first day was really hard, lots of skills to practice underwater and I had a hard time with some of them that day.  But everyday since has gotten better and after practicing skills we got to swim around and see stuff.  Also, in addition to the 4 dives for the course, I've done four other "fun dives" with Spencer, my instructor and other divers.  The reef is so beautiful here, we have seen tons of different types of coral, so many fish and today we saw a hawksbill turtle!!  I was really excited about that.  On Sunday we went looking for the whale sharks that live near here, but we didn't see any, too bad, oh well.  We went to one of the little islands near by, Water Cay and had lunch and chilled on the beach, it was so beautiful out there and there are tiny islands that you can rent, with a house, for $100 per day and they sleep 8 people,  pretty cool. 

So, we finished our course and we are officially Open Water Divers and can scuba dive anywhere in the world now!  Alice, you asked about this place, it is the cheapest place in the world to do the program, but you are on the boat ALOT!!  Ben even got sick a few times from the rocking and rolling, just a warning, I know how you are on boats.  But, I loved it, it's so awesome to be able to breathe underwater and just be down there with the fish.  I thought I would be scared or claustraphobic almost, but our teacher was so good and I felt totally confident.  Anyway, we're here for another day or two, to get some relaxation time in and then heading north, through Belize to Cancun and flying home from there a week from today. Annie 

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Sunset with crane like pose by Ben and Anne back to back in sillouette

 

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